There is a place in Bhutan where couples make pilgrimages in the hope of conceiving a child. This is the temple of the mad monk Chimi Lhakhang located near the small village of Sopsokha in the Punakha district.
Legend has it that Drukpa Kunley, who lived at the turn of the 15th and 16th centuries, built and blessed the temple celebrating his victory over the demon Dochu La, whom he defeated with his “magic thunderbolt of wisdom” i.e. his penis. As a wandering monk, Drukpa encountered many demons during his wanderings. In the vicinity of Sopsokha, they will come across the extremely dangerous Dochu La. The demon, seeing how generously Kunley is bestowed by nature, fled through the mountains and forests, but eventually the monk caught up with her and hit her with a rock. To prevent the demon from escaping, he erected a stupa over her, which would forever keep Dochu La in place.
Drukpa Kunley was a very cheerful monk, enjoying life in many ways, and not very orthodox about the demands of Buddhism. His teachings of Buddhism were based on chants, jokes, and many unorthodox sexual behaviours. Not surprisingly, Drukpa Kunley quickly found followers, and belief in the extraordinary power of his “magical thunderbolt of wisdom” is still strong in Bhutan.
The surroundings are truly extraordinary – phalluses of all sizes and colours are painted on the walls of the village located right next to the monastery. Such paintings bring happiness and prosperity to the household and, of course, scare away demons and all evil forces. In the local shops you can buy phalluses made of wood, stone, bone and even yarn. Most of them are fabulously colourful, some are modest and grey, some with big teeth and some with angel wings😊. The most popular penis figurines are also accompanied by other variations on the same theme – earrings, pendants, handbags, paintings with a phallus motif. There can be no doubt that the phallus rules in Sopsokha.
In the Chimi Lhskhang Temple there is the most important of the phalluses – the original wooden phallus that Drukpa Kunley brought from Tibet. The phallus is made of dark wood and decorated with a silver handle. It measures about 25 cm and is used to bless pilgrims who come to the temple in the hope of conceiving a child. As in all temples in Bhutan and Nepal, it is also forbidden to take photos in Chimi Lhakhang.
But I was able to experience the blessing of the “magic thunderbolt of wisdom.” The ceremony is short, there is no set time, you just have to be lucky that the monk wants to bless those who come to the temple. A monk, holding a sacred penis in his hand, approaches the person who wants to be blessed. You should bow your head, and the monk puts the phallus to your head. During the blessing, you should keep your mouth covered with your hand. Couples trying to conceive take bamboo pieces from the altar on which is written the name of the child who will be born thanks to the blessing.
In the past, women who asked the sacred phallus for a child had to stay overnight in a convent. This practice was discontinued after many children were born strongly resembling the monk giving blessings.
In the temple there is an album with photos sent by grateful mothers from different parts of the world. As proof that the blessing was efficacious and the story of the holy “magic thunderbolt of wisdom” has its power.
I wonder if the blessing I have received will be fulfilled. I didn’t stay overnight in the convent, I didn’t ask for a child, I asked to just be happy. I’m sure I left this place in a good mood – the atmosphere of this place worked, joyful and with a pinch of salt…
